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German Gewurztraminer
from Pfalz Mention

German wine and people assume white wine is the subject and Riesling the grape. Perhaps these conceptions are a bit too limiting considering the variety of Vinifera found within Germany's Pfalz region. Besides Riesling; Pinot Gris, Muscat and even Pinot Noir are produced with good results in this diverse region to the south of the Mosel and Rheingau. I enjoy all of these wines, but the Pfalz varietal that makes me most excited is Gewurztraminer.

Originally Traminer, and later its progeny Gewurztraminer, brought fame to Pfalz as a wine growing region. As with the rest of Germany, Riesling became the predominate grape in reputation and production.

More recently, however, Gewurztraminer plantings have tripled in Pfalz over the last thirty years to a total of 900 acres or nearly a third of Germany's total. Still Pfalz, Germany's most prolific wine producing region, is largely known for numerous forgettable blended whites from grapes of varying pedigree. In opposition to this perception of Pflaz, a number of the smaller estates have taken great strides to become more quality conscious, reveling in the various soil types and relatively warm climate to produce personable wines from a range of noble grapes. Unfortunately, they are not well known outside of Germany.

German Gewurztraminer differs from Alsace Gewuztraminer by having less alcohol and greater acidity. Alsace Gewurztraminers tend to be either very dry or extremely sweet, while their German relatives are usually off dry to medium sweet. The perceptive level of sweetness in German Gewurztraminer is low, however, due to their high acidity. Gewurztraminer from Alsace usually has a high alcohol content, limiting somewhat the foods they compliment to sausages and smoked meats. Their high alcohol content often fans the flames in already spicy dishes. Sweetness, fruit, acidity and moderate alcohol find a unique balance in German Gewurztraminers, endearing them to many foods ranging from spicy Asian cuisine to milder pork tenderloin, veal piccata and lemon trout. Gewurztraminers from both sides of the border raise Comte, Gruyere, and Cheshire cheeses to new levels.

J F Kimich Foster Stift Pfalz Gewurztraminer Spatlese 1995 An off dry and somewhat austere medium bodied wine, hinting at litchi nuts. It is well suited for the trout I promised you and an unimposing introduction to the Pfalz Gewurztraminer.

Muller Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Pfalz Gewurztraminer Auslese Trocken 1994 Full bodied and full of roses. The sweetness works with the acidity to harness the alcohol, highlight the paw paw fruits and Kwanzan cherry flowers finishing dry.

By Justin Christoph

About the Writer:
Justin Christoph, wine critic for the Philadelphia Sun, has conducted wine experiments and provided tasting projects for wine related publications over three continents.